Coming in a few color styles, the Orchestra mechanical skeletonized watch comes on a leather strap or steel bracelet. The bracelet is fine, nothing fancy, but doesn't really integrate well with the case. I would have much preferred a fitted bracelet that does not leave gaps between the lugs. Breil has done that with some other watches and I think it would be really appreciated here. With the case and dial being as unique as they are, I think the best customers will simply find their own straps or bracelets to match with the Orchestra.
Strap and buckle
Then all of a sudden I see this UNICO All Carbon watch from Hublot and suddenly remember why carbon fiber was interesting in the first place. I also probably like it so much because there is no carbon fiber in the dial. Just lots of Hublot style skeletonization with a view to the movement. The name UNICO is part of the watch and placed on the movement. UNICO is a title given to some of Hublot's in-house made movements. Based on a modified ETA Valjoux 7750 architecture, the UNICO is a totally in-house manufactured automatic chronograph movement. One of the improvements over the 7750 architecture in this caliber HUB1240 movement is the use of a column wheel in the chronograph. You can see the column-wheel right in the dial near 6 o'clock. The chronograph also has a flyback feature.
The standard Pulsion watches are all chronographs and contain the same RD680 automatic chronograph movements with a micro-rotor that other models such as the Monegasque Chronograph contain. These movements also bear the Seal of Geneva and are COSC certified. Unfortunately the final versions were not ready for the SIHH show so these pieces don't yet have the movements inside of them. I look forward to seeing how the final retail version looks with the RD680 inside of it. For the Pulsion Chronograph there are three models available for 2012. Two in titanium (one with black DLC coating), and one in 18k pink gold.
Kilometers or KPH to Miles or MPH conversions:
- The goal: Calculate a distance or speed in Miles where the distance or speed is known in Kilometers.
- A Kilometer is still roughly 0.621 of a mile.
- Set the outer ring's "6.21" over the inner ring index ("1"). No change from the previous example.
- In this case, we will technically be doing division rather than multiplication (dividing 200 by 0.621). Subtracting log values is division whereas adding log values is multiplication.
- Find "2" (for 200) on the inner ring.
- The outer ring shows "1.24" which is 124 miles.
Inside the watch is a base ETA Hublot caliber HUB4300 automatic chronograph movement. The steel Big Bang Zegg & Cerlati will be limited to 100 pieces while the 18k rose gold version will be limited to 50 pieces. They are available in Zegg & Cerlati boutiques in Monte Carlo, Austria, and Switzerland. Don't forget to check out the rings.
The first of the Seiko Golgo 13 limited edition watches is based on their recent limited edition EPD Digital watch released last year. This piece I believe is just called the Seiko Limited Edition Golgo 13 EPD watch. "EPD" is Seiko's own term for their high-resolution e-ink display. There are two styles of the Seiko Golgo 13 EPD waches (ref. SBPA009 and SBPA011). The two versions offer slightly different colored pushers and the SBPA009 comes on a metal bracelet versus a leather strap. The e-ink display has a range of screens which show the time, world, time, and calendar functions. The quartz movement is also solar powered. Mixed into the watch's functionality are images of Duke Togo from Golgo 13 - I thought that was pretty interesting. In this case, Seiko actually included Golgo 13 into the programming of the watch. The TV screen-like display and bracelet give the piece a retro-futuristic vibe, the steel, roughly 44mm wide case is black IP. Seiko will offer the SBPA009 as a limited edition of 500 pieces and the SBPA011 as a limited edition of 1000 pieces. Prices are 63,000 and 57,750 Yen respectively.
Lateral inserts: Black composite resin with carbon insert at 9 o'clock
It is true that some of what I am suggesting is or has been happening on the product side. There are kid's watches, plenty of them. But do enough of them properly serve as good “gateway watches,” helping a kid step up from watch to watch until they are adults? I am just not sure.
What are some of the precise differences from the prototype to this final version? Here are some words from them on the matter:
Number of jewels: 39
These are not just cosmetically enhanced Speedmaster watches with tricked-out dials. These are a new twist on the Speedmaster concept with a new movement. That latter part is sure to catch the attention of other watch movement nerds like me. The new movement is a sort of middle area between a base ETA movement and a totally in-house made Omega movement like the 9300.
Inside the watch is Seiko's in-house made Caliber 8R39 automatic chronograph movement. It is a nicely decorated workhorse in fancy clothing with some nice features such as a column-wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. As it is a diver, the caseback is solid, but you get a nice little engraving (which is actually like a wave breaking over water). It also says "Air Diver's" on the back and I am not sure what that means. Maybe some of the more hardcore Seiko dive watch fans can explain that to me.
Powering the 302 is an ETA 251.471 quartz movement offering a three register chronograph display, 1/10th of a second resolution and a date display at four o'clock. The three register chronograph display spans running seconds (lower display), a thirty minute register (left) and split seconds register (right). The purpose of a minimalist chronograph always seems so compromised as I feel the small and almost completely unmarked registers will be hard to read with any speed or accuracy. The 302 does at least provide indication markings so you know what each sub dial is measuring. Additionally, it can be easily argued that Uniform Wares was out to make a stylish and distinctive watch which does not need to be the most utilitarian of designs. Fashion has its price, after all.
Frequency 28,800 A/h
Autodromo's entire range comes in under 0 USD and for that money you get interesting and distinctive timepieces that are quite successful in porting classic automotive instrument design into nicely sized and attractive watches. My only reservation is the poor legibility of the hour hands which are the same color as the dial. Ultimately, this will not be a deal breaker for many buyers and the Autodromo offers about as much style and charm as one can find at this price point. It's not hard to see the appeal of these watches. To those that love cars and automotive design, Autodromo offers a chance to keep a piece of that styling with you throughout the day, while your car must wait out on the street or in the garage. A fun watch, but perhaps not for daily wear.
Movement: Modified calibre 13 1/4” BE-36AE automatic chronometer, 25 jewels, Glucydur balance. Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800 bph, 38-hour power reserve, Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated rotor.
aBtR: Many readers will know Phosphor for its use of E INK displays on models like the World Timer, why was E INK not used for the Touch Time?
DB: We are huge fans of E INK and we are the only watch manufacturer currently making watches with that display technology. On this particular project we needed a display which had a higher resolution on a small screen size than E INK displays are currently able to do.
Frequency: 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Even with the steeply angled lugs, it wears tall and seems taller due to vertical sides. The machined buckle is a delight, nicely made and engraved with "Helson."
There is a love story that Van Cleef & Arpels likes to play with. It involves a couple in Paris that prefer to look longingly at each other from a distance or occasionally meet on bridges to kiss at midnight. This shy duo has been the inspiration for a range of watches that keeps getting more interesting. This time the story is furthered in a duo of watches. The men's watch has our lovestruck protagonist standing on the Notre Dame cathedral on a starry Paris night. In the background you see the Eiffel Tower. You can see how the platform he is on doubles as an hour indicator and how the star in the sky indicates the minutes - but only on demand.
This is the latest watch from UTS Munchen. We've written before about UTS, it's basically the obsessive engineering of Nicolaus Spinner. Do you really need a watch that resists pressure from over twelve thousand feet of water? No, you do not. Do you want one? You just might.