In Honor of the Oscars: Hollywood and Their Favorite Brand Name Watches
This limited edition Roger Dubuis Easy Diver SED Tourbillon watch has less than 300 pieces out there. Retail price for the watch is about 5,000 - but retailers are making deals! I got to check out this cool Roger Dubuis as one of their authorized dealers here in CA, at Lussori in Carmel-By-The-Sea. A good example of a wild luxury watch from an interesting luxury watch brand.
So lets get to this wonderful watch. I say wonderful because I absolutely love it. It goes straight to the center of my watch loving nervous center because it is big, heavy, shiny, functional, and damn manly. Let's face it, a lot of the Orient watches have a serious injection of masculinity - and I for one have no problem with that. The watch itself is a diver watch (duh), but more specifically a saturation diver. That means that it does not need a helium escape (release) valve. The case is so tight, helium does not appreciably affect the internal pressure when resurfacing. This negates the need for the gas escape valve. The watch is rated at being water resistant to 300 meters, but I tell you, I would easily believe it if Orient told me it was resistant to 1000 meters. It has just the type of thick steel case and sapphire crystal that communicates that. The details I get range, but the sapphire crystal is between about 4-5mm thick. The steel case is also supposed to be specially corrosion resistant. Why is this important? Because salt water is a bitch, and will eat through things like acid if they are exposed long enough. For this reason, and watch meant for serious diving should take this into consideration. These are just some of the diver friendly features, but I have to say, this is about all watch you need in a mechanical diving watch for the vast majority of divers out there.
The watch is less of a timepiece per say than a tour de force of the movement. Visible through the front and rear of the watch, the manually wound caliber is beguiling made out of a number of fancy materials - including... Orthorhombic titanium aluminides! The spacey alloy is what makes up the honeycomb pattern plates on the movement and was originally developed for aerospace purposes (of course!). The Caliber RM022 is where all the action is. The tourbillon based movement does some interesting things. Functionally the watch as the time and a second time zone. The second time zone is displayed in a transparent disc that goes around the center of the dial and moves in one hour increments. You see what the second time zone hour is over the white section on the right of the face. It uses the main minutes hand for the minutes. Pretty simple. The bottom of the case shows the tourbillon underneath the "cage" that looks like spokes. There are also three other indicators on the dial. The upper left has a power reserve indicator for the movement, which has up to 70 hours of power reserve. Adjacent to it is a movement torque indicator. This part of the watch is a bit gimmicky but cool. Basically it shows the rate of power that the mainspring is dishing out. You want the torque indicator to be in the middle section for the watch to be optimally accurate. This function is really a discussion for another time. It is a pure "luxury features" that is fun to have, but not necessary. Then you have a function selector on the middle right portion of the dial. This is for indicating to you what function the crown will perform when it is used. This function is adjusted via a pusher in the crown. The different functions involve setting the time, winding the movement, and adjusting the second time zone. This is of course instead of pulling out the crown to perform these actions.